Retaining Walls for Salt Lake City Yards: Stability & Style

This guide covers the four main retaining wall solutions for Utah yards, costs, design requirements, and when you need permits or engineering. Simms Landscape has built hundreds of retaining walls across Sandy, Draper, and the foothills; we know what lasts in Utah’s clay soil and freeze-thaw cycles.

Signs You Need a Retaining Wall in Your Salt Lake City Yard

Not every sloped yard needs a retaining wall. But if you’re seeing these problems, a wall solves them permanently.

Soil erosion washing away landscaping:
Spring snowmelt and summer thunderstorms wash topsoil down slopes. Flower beds erode. Mulch disappears. Grass roots get exposed. Year after year, you replace soil and plants. Retaining wall terraces catch runoff and hold soil in place.

Water pooling at foundation:
Slope directs water toward the house instead of away. After rain or snowmelt, water pools against the foundation, seeps into the basement, and causes cracks. Foundation repair costs $3,000–$15,000. A retaining wall at mid-slope can redirect water before it reaches the foundation.

Unusable sloped yard space:
You can’t place a patio on a 15° slope. Kids’ play areas slide downhill. Steep sections are impossible to mow. Foothills properties in Sandy and Draper lose 30–50% of usable yard to slope. A retaining wall creates level terraces and turns steep grade into flat, usable space.

Driveway or walkway settlement:
Soil beneath the driveway washes out. Asphalt sinks and cracks. Walkway pavers tilt. This happens when runoff flows under hardscaping. A retaining wall uphill from the driveway holds soil in place and stops erosion under the slab.

Foundation cracks from pressure:
Slope pushes soil against the foundation. Hydrostatic pressure builds. Foundation walls crack or bow. Basement leaks follow. A retaining wall 5–10 feet from the foundation relieves pressure by holding back soil.

Sloped lots are common in Salt Lake County:
Foothills properties in Sandy, Draper, Cottonwood Heights, and Herriman sit on steep terrain. Bench areas in Murray and South Jordan have gentler slopes but still need terracing. Without retaining walls, these properties fight erosion constantly.

How Retaining Walls Solve Slope & Drainage Problems

Retaining walls do three critical jobs: hold back soil, create usable space, and manage water flow. Done right, they solve problems permanently.

Hold back soil (primary function):
The wall acts as a vertical barrier. It prevents soil from sliding downhill. Lateral earth pressure pushes against the wall — proper design resists that force. Gravity, friction, and reinforcement (rebar, geogrid) keep the wall stable. Poor walls bulge, tilt, or collapse in 2–5 years.

Create level terraces:
One tall wall or multiple shorter walls create flat platforms. A foothills lot with 20 feet of elevation change can become 3–4 level terraces. Each terrace is usable: patio on top, garden in the middle, play area at the bottom. You gain 30–50% more usable yard.

Manage water flow:
Gravel backfill and a drain pipe behind the wall collect water. Water flows through the gravel to the perforated pipe, which exits (daylights) downhill or ties into drainage. That prevents hydrostatic pressure — the #1 cause of wall failure in Utah.

Why drainage is critical in Salt Lake City:
Clay soil in the Salt Lake Valley doesn’t drain. Water saturates the soil behind the wall. Weight increases. Pressure builds. The wall bulges or collapses. Proper drainage reduces that pressure by 60–80%. It’s non-negotiable here.

Solution #1: Gravity Block Retaining Walls (Most Common)

Interlocking concrete blocks are the most popular choice for residential retaining walls in Salt Lake City. They rely on weight and setback (batter) to hold soil. No mortar needed — blocks lock together with pins or lips.

What they look like:
Blocks come in multiple styles: smooth face, stone texture, split face. Colors include gray, tan, brown, and red. Each block weighs 50–80 lbs. Courses stack and step back slightly (about 1 inch per foot of height). Finished wall looks clean and uniform.

Best for:

• Residential walls under 4 feet (no permit needed in most cities)
• Terraced garden beds
• Budget-conscious installs ($15–$30/sq ft)
• DIY-friendly work (walls under ~3 ft)
• Moderate slopes

Installation process:

1. Excavate below frost line (≈30 inches in Salt Lake City)
2. Install compacted gravel base (6–12 inches)
3. Level the first course (this sets the whole wall)
4. Stack additional courses with setback (batter)
5. Backfill with gravel, not clay soil
6. Install perforated drain pipe at the base
7. Cap the top course (recommended)

Pros:

• Easy to install for walls under 3–4 feet
• No mortar needed — faster than stone or concrete
• Individual block repair is simple
• Curves, corners, and color options
• Under 4 feet usually avoids permit requirements

Cons:

• Limited height without engineering (4–6 feet max)
• Base prep must be correct — clay soil settles
• Not ideal for very steep slopes
• Drainage is mandatory or it fails in 3–5 years

Typical cost:
$15–$30 per sq ft installed.
Example: 30 ft long × 4 ft tall wall (120 sq ft) = $1,800–$3,600.
Simms pricing: usually $18–$25/sq ft depending on block style.

Lifespan: 25–40 years with proper drainage and base.

Simms approach:
We use Allan Block or Belgard systems that have already proven themselves in Utah winters. Every wall gets gravel backfill, a perforated drain pipe, and a compacted base set below frost depth. We include a 2-year workmanship warranty.

Solution #2: Boulder / Natural Stone Walls (Premium)

Large boulders or stacked natural stone create rustic, permanent walls that blend with Utah’s native look. This is the premium visual option for long-term projects.

What they look like:
Boulders: 200–2,000+ lb individual stones placed with an excavator, varied color and shape, “natural foothill” look.
Stacked stone: Flat sandstone / flagstone pieces stacked dry or mortared. Irregular shapes hand-fit together.

Best for:

• High-end aesthetics (natural Utah look)
• Slopes up to ~6 feet
• Lots where resale value matters
• Projects where stone can be sourced on-site
• 50+ year lifespan goals

Installation process:

1. Excavate and grade slope
2. Set the largest boulders at the base (foundation layer)
3. Place additional boulders with slight setback
4. Fill voids with smaller rock and compacted soil
5. Backfill with gravel, install drain pipe
6. Optional: plant between stones for a naturalized look

Pros:

• Looks natural on foothill properties in Sandy and Draper
• Extremely durable — 50+ year lifespan
• Freeze-thaw resistant
• Can boost property value
• Each wall is unique

Cons:

• Highest cost: $30–$60/sq ft installed
• Requires heavy equipment (excavator access)
• Engineering required above ~4 feet in many cities
• Stone availability impacts cost
• Design flexibility is limited by boulder size and shape

Typical cost:
$30–$60 per sq ft installed.
Example: 30 ft long × 4 ft tall wall (120 sq ft) = $3,600–$7,200.
Lower cost if we can reuse on-site stone, higher if trucking in rock.

Lifespan: 50+ years. Stone doesn’t rot or flake the way concrete can.

Simms approach:
We source Utah stone (local quarries or even from your own lot). We build with drainage and setback, not just “stack and hope.” This is common in Draper/Sandy foothill builds where the slope is steep and visual impact matters.

Solution #3: Poured Concrete Retaining Walls (Engineered Strength)

Reinforced concrete walls with rebar and a proper footing are the strongest option. Cities in Salt Lake County typically require this approach for taller walls (6 ft+), basement walkouts, and structural applications.

What they look like:
A solid poured wall. Can stay exposed for an industrial look, or be faced with stone veneer, stuccoed, or painted to match the home.

Best for:

• Walls over 6 feet tall
• Basement walkouts
• Supporting driveways or structures
• Poor soil conditions / high loading
• Commercial or heavy-duty residential installs

Installation process:

1. Licensed engineer designs and stamps the wall
2. Permit pulled from the city
3. Excavate for footing (below frost line, wide enough for load)
4. Install rebar cage (vertical and horizontal reinforcement)
5. Pour footing and cure
6. Build forms for the wall
7. Pour wall, vibrate to eliminate voids
8. Cure 7–14 days
9. Strip forms, waterproof, backfill with gravel and drain pipe

Pros:

• Strongest system for tall walls
• Handles surcharge loads (driveways, structures)
• Engineered for safety and code compliance
• Can be finished with veneer so it looks like stone
• Long service life with correct drainage

Cons:

• Most expensive: $40–$80/sq ft installed
• Always needs engineering and permit
• Longer timeline (forming, curing, inspections)
• Not DIY

Typical cost:
$40–$80 per sq ft installed.
Example: 30 ft long × 6 ft tall wall (180 sq ft) = $7,200–$14,400.
Add $500–$2,000 for engineering and $100–$500 for permits.

Lifespan: 30–50 years if waterproofed and drained correctly.

Simms approach:
We coordinate stamped engineering plans with licensed Utah engineers, manage permits, excavate, install rebar, pour, waterproof, and backfill with proper drainage. Typical path to completion is 2–3 weeks once permits are cleared.

Solution #4: Timber Retaining Walls (Budget Temporary)

Treated lumber post-and-plank walls are the lowest-cost option. They work for low, non-structural areas. We do not recommend them as a long-term structural fix for slopes or foundations in Utah.

What they look like:
6×6 or 8×8 treated posts set vertically, with horizontal 2×8 or 2×10 planks fastened between them. “Cabin/rustic” look.

Best for:

• Short-term solutions (10–15 year window)
• Garden bed edging
• Low walls under ~3 feet
• Budget-limited projects

Installation process:

1. Dig post holes below frost depth
2. Set posts in gravel or concrete
3. Attach horizontal planks
4. Backfill with gravel
5. Add drain pipe if over 2 feet tall

Pros:

• Lowest upfront cost ($10–$20/sq ft)
• Fast install (1–2 days)
• DIY friendly

Cons:

• Short lifespan (10–15 years)
• Wood rots in Utah moisture and freeze/thaw
• Not acceptable for foundation protection
• Posts can heave and twist over time

Typical cost:
$10–$20 per sq ft installed.
Example: 30 ft long × 3 ft tall wall (90 sq ft) = $900–$1,800.
DIY materials can drop that to $300–$600 but you lose warranty and pro compaction.

Lifespan: 10–15 years. Then you’re rebuilding.

Simms recommendation:
Use timber for raised beds or temporary holding. Do not rely on it for erosion control near structures. If budget is tight, save for a block wall instead. Better long-term value in Utah.

Critical Design Factors for Utah Retaining Walls

Material matters, but build quality decides whether your wall lasts 5 years or 50. These five factors are not optional in Utah.

Factor #1: Drainage behind the wall

Why it matters:
Clay soil holds water. Saturated soil weighs 2–3× more than dry soil. That extra weight builds hydrostatic pressure and pushes on the wall. Without relief, the wall bulges and fails.

Proper drainage setup:

• 12–18 inches of gravel backfill behind the wall (not native clay)
• Perforated 4-inch drain pipe at the base, wrapped in filter fabric
• Drain pipe daylighted downhill or tied into drainage
• Weep holes every 4–6 feet on some block systems

What happens without drainage:
The wall fails in 3–5 years. You’ll see bowing at the base, cracked concrete, shifted blocks. Rebuilds run $3,000–$10,000. Proper drainage often costs only a few hundred. Skipping it is false economy.

Factor #2: Foundation & base preparation

Why it matters:
If the base moves, the wall moves. Frost heave in winter and clay expansion after storms can lift or twist the footing if it’s not built correctly.

Proper base setup:

• Excavate below frost line (≈30 inches in Salt Lake County)
• Install 6–12 inches of compacted road base / gravel in 2-inch lifts
• Get the first course within 1/4 inch level over 10 feet
• Use a wider base for taller walls (base width ≈ half wall height)

What happens without proper base:
The wall settles unevenly, leans, cracks, or separates. That’s when you start seeing tilt and daylight between courses.

Factor #3: Batter (setback)

Why it matters:
A perfectly vertical wall has to fight the full load of the soil. A wall that leans slightly back into the slope uses gravity to its advantage. That lean is called batter.

Proper batter:
About 1 inch of setback per foot of wall height. Gravity block systems bake this into the design. Boulder walls get natural setback by how stones are placed. Poured concrete walls can be designed with an angle or must be engineered to resist the added force if vertical.

What happens without batter:
Forward bulge and eventual failure, especially once the backfill gets saturated.

Factor #4: Soil type & conditions

Clay soil (Salt Lake Valley standard):

• Expands when wet and shrinks when dry
• Doesn’t drain naturally
• Settles unevenly
• Requires thicker compacted gravel base and serious drainage

Sandy soil:

• Drains well
• Doesn’t expand as much
• May still need geogrid reinforcement for tall block walls

Rocky soil:

• Great drainage
• Stable base
• Harder to excavate (equipment or jackhammer)

Factor #5: Height & wall length

Short walls (<3 ft):
Easier to build. Usually no permit. DIY is often realistic. Block works well.

Medium walls (3–6 ft):
May need permit. May need engineering. Block or boulder systems are common. Terracing (two 3 ft walls instead of one 6 ft wall) is often smarter.

Tall walls (>6 ft):
Engineering is mandatory in most cities. Permit is mandatory. Poured concrete or engineered block with geogrid. Not DIY.

Long walls (>50 ft):
You need joints, curves, or stepped sections to manage movement and stress. Inspectors care more, too.

Permits & Engineering Requirements (Salt Lake County)

Rules vary by city, but this is the general pattern across Salt Lake County. Always verify locally.

When you need a permit

Usually no permit needed:

• Walls under 4 feet tall
• Not supporting a driveway or structure
• Not right on the property line

Permit likely needed:

• Walls 4–6 feet tall
• Walls within a few feet of the property line
• Walls affecting drainage patterns
• Walls supporting driveways, patios, etc.

Permit always needed:

• Walls over 6 feet tall
• Poured concrete retaining walls
• Walls supporting structures
• Walls in an easement or right-of-way

When you need engineering

Usually no engineering:

• Block walls under 4 feet on moderate slopes
• Boulder walls under 3 feet, dry-stacked
• Walls installed to manufacturer spec (Allan Block, Belgard)

Engineering may be required:

• Block walls 4–6 feet tall
• Boulder walls over 4 feet
• Walls on steep slopes (>2:1)
• Walls in poor clay-heavy soils

Engineering always required:

• Poured concrete walls (any height)
• Any wall over 6 feet
• Walls supporting driveways, patios, or buildings
• Walls near foundations or basements

Cost of permits & engineering

Engineering: $500–$2,000
(Stamped plans from a licensed Utah engineer. Usually 1–2 weeks turnaround.)

Permit: $100–$500
(Depends on city and wall size. Plan review plus inspection. Usually 2–4 week process.)

Inspections:
For permitted walls, inspectors usually visit after excavation/before backfill, after rebar install (for concrete), and at final. If you miss an inspection, you can be forced to tear out work. Simms books and manages those inspections.

Cost Breakdown: What You’ll Pay in Salt Lake City

Cost depends on material, wall height, access, soil conditions, and permit/engineering requirements.

Cost by material (per sq ft installed)

• Timber walls: $10–$20/sq ft
  • Budget / temporary (10–15 year life)
• Gravity block walls: $15–$30/sq ft

  • Most common residential choice

• Boulder / stone walls: $30–$60/sq ft

  • Premium look, 50+ year lifespan

• Poured concrete walls: $40–$80/sq ft

  • Engineered strength for tall / structural walls

Example project sizes and totals (30 ft long wall):

30 ft × 3 ft (90 sq ft):
Timber: $900–$1,800
Block: $1,350–$2,700
Boulder: $2,700–$5,400
Concrete: $3,600–$7,200

30 ft × 4 ft (120 sq ft):
Timber: $1,200–$2,400 (not ideal this tall)
Block: $1,800–$3,600
Boulder: $3,600–$7,200
Concrete: $4,800–$9,600

30 ft × 6 ft (180 sq ft):
Block: $2,700–$5,400 (may need engineering)
Boulder: $5,400–$10,800
Concrete: $7,200–$14,400 (+$500–$2,000 engineering)

What affects cost

Site access:

• Easy access (open yard): standard pricing
• Steep access / tight side yard: add 20–40%
• Hand carry only (no machine access): add 50–100%

Soil conditions:

• Normal soil: standard pricing
• Rocky soil (requires hammering): +$2–$5/sq ft
• Poor drainage (needs more gravel): +$1–$3/sq ft
• Steep slope (>2:1): +20–30%

Wall height:

• <4 ft: standard
• 4–6 ft: +20% (labor, permit)
• >6 ft: +40–60% (engineering, heavier structure)

Extras that increase cost:

• Steps through the wall: $300–$1,000 per set
• Curves/corners: +10–20%
• Cap stones: +$3–$8/linear ft
• Lighting: +$50–$150 per fixture
• Plant pockets between boulders: +$5–$15 per plant

DIY vs. pro cost comparison

DIY gravity block wall (30 ft × 3 ft):
Materials (blocks, gravel, pipe, fabric): ~$540–$1,080
Equipment rental (plate compactor, etc.): $150–$300
Your labor: ~16–24 hours
Total DIY outlay: ~$690–$1,380
Savings: ~40–50% vs pro install

Pro gravity block wall (30 ft × 3 ft):
Total: $1,350–$2,700
Includes excavation, base compaction, block install, drainage, cleanup, warranty. Usually 2–3 days of work for a crew.

When DIY makes sense:
Wall under 3 ft, decent access, healthy enough to move 50–80 lb blocks, and time to do it right.

When pro makes sense:
Over 3–4 ft tall, near a structure, poor soil, tricky access, or you want warranty and engineering handled for you.

DIY vs. pro: when to hire a contractor

DIY-friendly projects

You can realistically DIY if:

• Wall is under 3 ft tall
• It’s a gravity block wall (Allan Block / Belgard style)
• Slope is moderate (not extreme)
• Soil isn’t a mess (not saturated clay, not solid rock)
• You have open access for materials
• You’re willing to do 2–3 full work days of digging, hauling, compacting, and setting block perfectly level

Tools/equipment you’ll need:

• Shovel, pick, wheelbarrow
• Plate compactor (rental)
• 6-ft level and string line
• Dead blow hammer / mallet
• Landscape fabric and stakes
• Saw with masonry blade (for block cuts)

Time investment for a 30 ft × 3 ft wall:
Planning: 2–4 hrs
Excavation/base prep: 4–8 hrs
Block setting: 4–8 hrs
Drainage/backfill: 2–4 hrs
Total: 14–28 hrs of physical work

Hire a pro if:

• The wall is over 4 ft tall
• You’re on a steep slope (>2:1)
• The wall sits near a foundation, driveway, or patio
• The city requires a permit/inspection
• The wall needs an engineer’s stamp
• You don’t have access for equipment
• Your health or time doesn’t allow hauling block and compacting base

Red flags where you should not DIY:

• Wall supports a structure or driveway
• Wall sits on/near a property line
• Signs of previous failure (slump, bowing, cracked concrete)
• Basement walkout / egress walls
• Commercial or rental property liability concerns

What a pro brings:

• Experience with Utah clay, frost depth, drainage codes
• Equipment: excavator, skid steer, compactor, laser level, dump truck
• Speed: 2–3 days instead of 2–3 weekends
• Warranty: if something settles, they come back
• Insurance: protects you if a worker gets hurt on site

Cost vs value:
DIY might save $600–$1,300 on a 30 ft × 3 ft wall. For taller walls or walls touching the house, the risk of failure is more expensive than the savings.

How Simms Landscape Builds Retaining walls

We’ve built hundreds of retaining walls across Salt Lake County since 1994. Here’s how we run a typical project.

Step 1: On-site consultation & design

What we do:

• Walk the property, measure slope, evaluate drainage and soil
• Identify erosion risks, foundation risks, and lost usable space
• Recommend wall type (block, boulder, concrete)
• Show material samples and cost ranges
• Explain any likely permit or engineering requirements

What you get:

• A detailed written estimate with material and labor broken out
• A basic layout sketch or CAD drawing
• Timeline from start to finish
• Phasing options if you want to split work across seasons

Cost: $500 design consultation. Credited toward the project if you move forward.

Step 2: Engineering & permits (if needed)

• We coordinate with a licensed Utah engineer for stamped plans
• We submit the permit package to the city
• We schedule inspections with the city so you don’t have to deal with it

Timeline:
Engineering: 1–2 weeks
City permit review: 2–4 weeks
Total pre-construction runway: ~3–6 weeks on engineered walls

Step 3: Excavation & base preparation

• Call 811 to mark utilities
• Excavate to correct depth (below frost line in Salt Lake County)
• Grade for drainage away from structures
• Install and compact 6–12 inches of gravel base, in lifts
• Laser-level the first course line within 1/4 inch over 10 feet

Equipment: Excavator or skid steer (job dependent), plate compactor, laser level, dump truck for haul-off.

Timeline: Usually 1–2 days.

Step 4: Wall construction

Block walls:
Set first course below grade. Stack additional courses with batter. Lock blocks with pins/lips. Cut corners clean. Cap the top course.

Boulder walls:
Set massive base boulders with the excavator. Step back each additional lift for stability. Lock gaps with smaller rock. Build natural-looking face lines instead of “piles.”

Concrete walls:
Form and pour footing. Tie rebar cage. Build forms. Pour wall and vibrate to eliminate voids. Cure 7–14 days. Waterproof and backfill.

Timeline:
Block: ~2–4 days
Boulder: ~3–5 days
Concrete: ~2–3 weeks including cure time

Step 5: Drainage & backfill

• Perforated drain pipe at wall base, wrapped in fabric
• Gravel backfill 12–18 inches behind wall
• Geotextile fabric separating gravel from native clay
• Layered compaction as we backfill
• Surface grading to keep water flowing away from structures and the wall face

This step is why cheap walls fail and pro walls last decades. We never skip drainage on Utah installs.

Step 6: Final inspection & cleanup

• We meet the city inspector if there’s a permit
• We walk the project with you and confirm scope was met
• We haul off excess soil, rake disturbed areas, and seed if needed
• We explain maintenance (what to watch after heavy rain, etc.)

Warranty: 2-year workmanship warranty. If the wall moves because of our install, we fix it.

Typical timeline (permit to completion)

Block wall, no permit:
About 1 week total
Day 1: Excavation/base
Days 2–3: Wall stacking
Day 4: Drainage/backfill/finish

Block wall, with permit:
4–6 weeks total
Weeks 1–4: Engineering + permit
Week 5: Install (about 4 days)

Concrete wall, engineered:
5–8 weeks total
Weeks 1–3: Engineering + permit
Weeks 4–5: Excavation, footing, forms
Weeks 6–7: Pour and cure
Week 8: Backfill and wrap up

Service area

Salt Lake City, Sandy, Draper, South Jordan, West Jordan, Murray, Cottonwood Heights, Herriman, Riverton. We specialize in foothill and slope-heavy lots.

Why choose Simms

• 30+ years building retaining walls in Utah
• Licensed and insured
• We coordinate engineering and permits
• We install drainage correctly, every time
• 2-year workmanship warranty
• Detailed, line-item estimates — no surprises

Call (801) 285-9343 or request an estimate.

Back to our complete landscape design guide for more Utah outdoor project ideas. Also see patio material selection, outdoor living spaces, and hardscape maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a retaining wall cost in Salt Lake City?

Costs range $10–$80 per square foot installed. Timber walls: $10–$20/sq ft (budget, 10–15 year lifespan). Gravity block walls: $15–$30/sq ft (most common). Boulder/stone walls: $30–$60/sq ft (premium, 50+ years). Poured concrete: $40–$80/sq ft (engineered strength). A typical 30 ft long × 4 ft tall wall (120 sq ft) runs $1,800–$9,600. Simms provides detailed estimates with material options.

Do I need a permit for a retaining wall in Salt Lake City?

Walls under 4 feet usually don’t need permits in Salt Lake County. Walls 4–6 feet may require a permit. Walls over 6 feet require both an engineering stamp and a permit. If the wall supports a driveway, patio, or structure, or sits close to a property line, permitting is more likely. Simms handles permits and engineering.

What’s the best retaining wall material for Utah’s freeze-thaw cycles?

Gravity block walls and boulder/stone walls handle freeze-thaw best. Interlocking block systems flex a little instead of cracking. Boulder walls are basically solid rock. Poured concrete is strongest but needs correct reinforcement and drainage or it can crack. Timber rots in Utah soil moisture, so it’s temporary.

How tall can a retaining wall be without engineering?

Most cities in Salt Lake County allow up to 4 feet without engineering. Some allow up to 6 feet for certain block systems. Anything taller needs engineering. Any wall supporting a structure or driveway needs engineering regardless of height. Simms works with licensed Utah engineers for stamped plans.

Why do retaining walls fail in Utah?

Bad drainage is the top reason. Clay soil holds water, pressure builds behind the wall, and the wall bows or collapses. Other common failure points: no gravel backfill, missing drain pipe, base not below frost depth, no batter (setback). Cheap walls tend to fail within 5 years. Properly built walls last decades.

Can I build a retaining wall myself in Salt Lake City?

Yes — if it’s a gravity block wall under 3 feet tall on a moderate slope with decent access. You’ll need to excavate below frost line, compact a gravel base, set the first course perfectly level, install a drain pipe, and backfill with gravel (not clay). If the wall is taller than 4 feet, near a structure, or needs engineering, bring in a pro. Simms offers full builds or consultation-only support.

Ready to Solve Your Slope & Drainage Problems?

Call Simms Landscape at (801) 285-9343 or request an estimate. Free on-site consultations. Material samples. Detailed estimates with phased options.

We handle everything: engineering, permits, excavation, installation, drainage, cleanup. Or just consultation — you choose scope. Clear scopes. Clean jobs. 30+ years serving Salt Lake County.